Repair3Drywall

I received the call this few days from my church's workplace manager saying we needed to have some fixes made before a visit from the building inspectors a few weeks. One of the repairs was a hole in the drywall where any door handle had punched with the wall. The doorstop had broken and then thing you know there is a repair job for the Go-To Guy.

Knowing how to accomplish a patch such as this is handy even if you're not mending damage. The first time I did one was after i installed phone and cable service into an older home that my own parents had obtained. My brother and I cut holes at the top and bottom of the wall to fish with the new wire, and then I patched in the holes and repainted and you'd never know the wall had been repaired. The same applies to running a fresh electrical wire or other things that requires getting in the wall.

If you don't know, a typical wall is certainly caused by air. It is either 2×4 wood studs or metal studs that are placed every sixteen inches on-center (any time building walls a person measure from the center of each stud and never the edges.) The area is covered with drywall (a gypsum board covered having a heavy layer of paper) that is screwed or nailed towards the studs. It's quick to create and looks great, but can be easily damaged - specially when the builder makes use of 1/4 inch thick drywall instead of 1/2 inch or perhaps 3/4 inch (they're the standard thicknesses.)

When you have a damaged wall you should replace the busted area with new drywall and patch the seams and paint.

The supplies you'll need for this venture are:

Drywall Saw

Utility Knife

Drywall piece huge enough to load the hole

1×3 inch Lumber or pieces of Scrap Plywood with regard to supports

Drywall Screws

Joint Compound

Mesh Fiberglass Drywall Recording

6 inch or perhaps larger Spreader

Fine Grit Sand Paper or Drywall Sanding Display

Drill with Drywall Little bit

All of these supplies are available at your nearby home center within the construction materials area close to the drywall. If you have a small patch, they may provide you with a scrap of drywall so you won't have to buy a full linen. There are usually a lot of scraps laying around in a variety of thicknesses.

Here's the step-by-step method:

Cut a hole larger than the damaged area. Make the corners from the cut as square as you can to make it easier to cut the replacement patch. Use a drywall observed cut the gap

Cut several items of 1×3 inch timber or plywood scraps that are several inches taller than the hole. Place them inside the wall near the edges from the hole and use drywall screws in order to secure the wood towards the exisiting wall. (Tighten the screws before heads are slightly below the top but don't completely tear with the paper. A drywall bit for the drill was created to prevent overtightening. It's not essetial, but recommended.) The stage here is to produce a good solid surface to add the patch too. If you use a large opening it is possible to put an additional support inside the center.

Using a energy knife, cut a new patch piece that's slightly smaller compared to the hole. (To minimize drywall, cut the paper about the finished side and bend the board backward before gypsum 'snaps. ' You'll wish to support the back across the cut so that breaks evenly. Once it offers snapped, use the energy knife to reduce the paper about the back.)

Insert the patch to the opening and securely attach it for the supports you set up using drywall screws. One screw at the very top and bottom of every support should be sufficient. (Don't place the screws too near the edges or the gypsum will topple.)

Now that the actual hole is filled you need to cover the seams. Apply fiberglass mesh tape within the seams. (The joint compound used to fill the seams is not strong and will crack if not reinforced.)

The last stage is applying joint compound to the seams with an extensive spreading knife Distributed the joint compound within the screw holes and tape creating the smoothest surface you are able to. Don't get too fussy during this period. Just get it close. Let this dry overnight and then put on an additional light coat. After this coat dries, smooth out virtually any surface bumps with a light sanding.

Your wall is repaired, good as new. Put a coat of wall primer within the patch to seal the top and then fresh paint it to match the rest of the wall. It's important to put on the primer, because raw drywall and joint compound, when painted, will dull the final of the paint and give away your spot job.

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